Living the Dream at Ciccia Osteria!

By Wendy Lemlin

For Chef Francesca Penoncelli, Ciccia Osteria is the manifestation of a long held dream.

 

Chef Francesca Penoncelli

Chef Francesca Penoncelli

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Mario Cassineri welcomes guests to Ciccia Osteria

Chef Francesca Penoncelli has cooked in high-end kitchens all over the world, from her native Italy to such far-off places as Paris, Seoul, Beirut and Dubai, before landing in the U.S. more than a dozen years ago. Never one to draw attention to herself, she’s mostly stayed in the background while her more outgoing husband, fellow chef, and business partner Mario Cassineri has represented the pair in the limelight (but always making sure to credit her contributions!). With the opening of Ciccia Osteria in the newly-hip neighborhood of Barrio Logan, Chef Francesca is fulfilling her dream of owning a “small, simple restaurant” with Mario, and putting the couple’s spin on time-honored family recipes with a touch of modern interpretation. Continue reading

Teaching an Old Blue Dog New Tricks

Food is getting mighty tasty in Lafayette, Louisiana, and at The Blue Dog Cafe,  new executive chef Ryan Trahan is one of the culinary leaders making that happen.

When I first began my semi-annual travels to Lafayette about a dozen years ago to indulge my passion for the area’s Cajun and Zydeco music, there were very few restaurants that I could get excited about. Vegetables boiled to mush and deep fried everything weren’t really the way I liked to eat, plus, as a pescatarian who doesn’t eat meat, most of the Cajun specialties like boudin and dishes made with various pork products were not an option for me.

Chef Ryan Trahan and the Blue Dog

Chef Ryan Trahan and the Blue Dog

All that began to change a few years ago, when a growing number of new restaurants started highlighting local, healthier ingredients and creative cuisine, and bringing the so-called “farm-to-table” concept to my grateful tastebuds. In fact, in recent years, Lafayette has been experiencing a culinary renaissance, earning the titles of “Tastiest Town in the South” in 2014 from AAA Southern Traveler, and in 2012 from Southern Living, and “Best Food City” in 2011 from Rand McNally/USA Today. So, as of my recent trip to Lafayette for Mardi Gras, I have added a new favorite restaurant to my list—one that had, truthfully, underwhelmed me in the past but now has me singing its praises to all who will listen. Thanks to recently-hired Executive Chef Ryan Trahan’s inventive talent and spot-on cuisine, The Blue Dog Cafe has been reborn into a “must go” dining destination. Continue reading

Visit Vistal for the Vista and the Victuals

With a powerhouse team, Vistal, InterContinental San Diego’s signature restaurant offers upscale dining not just for hotel guests

by Wendy Lemlin

Vistal's harborview patio

Vistal’s harborview patio

Yes, the food is excellent, the open, contemporary space compelling, and the views out over San Diego’s harbor gorgeous. But one thing that is sure to entice locals to experience Vistal, the signature restaurant at San Diego’s new bayfront Intercontinental Hotel, is COMPLIMENTARY 3 hour valet parking! Yes, as in FREE. In an area overlooking the Embarcadero and cruise ship terminal, where meters are enforced 24-7 and charges add up quickly, that is huge! Think of trying to park anywhere near most of the other premier fine dining restaurants in San Diego or La Jolla, especially at luxury hotels that seem to charge for anything they can, and you know why this is a big deal.

Chef's Paul McCabe & Amy DiBiase

Chef’s Paul McCabe & Amy DiBiase

But, of course, free parking alone wouldn’t mean much if Vistal wasn’t serving food worth coming downtown for. With the powerhouse team of Chefs Paul McCabe and Amy DiBiase at the helm, however, damn good food is pretty much a given. Continue reading

Parlez-Vous Brunch?

La Bonne Table Now Serving Sunday Brunch

by Wendy Lemlin

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Mesdames et Messieurs, welcome to brunch, French-style.  Well, not precisely, because brunch isn’t really a thing in France, but if it were, it would taste exactly like the offerings on La Bonne Table’s new Sunday Brunch menu, available at the Hillcrest bistro on Sundays from 10-3, with a special Post Pride Parade Brunch on Saturday July 15.

The welcome antithesis to the overrated brunch behemoth down the block (at which I’m always amazed to see long lines out the door waiting for mass quantities of totally mediocre food), La Bonne Table is intimate, sophisticated, and très French. The seating is comfortable, the atmosphere convivial, and you don’t have to shout to converse with your dining partner. Continue reading

Civico 1845: Collaboration Italian Style

By Wendy Lemlin

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   With its authentic food and outstanding vegan menu, Civico 1845 is one of my favorite Italian restaurants in San Diego, and it looks like it is going to become even better. Beginning this month, the Civico team is collaborating with chefs Antonio and Luca Abbruzzino, a Michelin rated father/son pair from Calabria, Italy, to highlight genuine southern Italian ingredients in the restaurant’s dishes. Continue reading

“Raw” Pleasure: Crudo by Pascal Lorange

by Wendy Lemlin

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Splashes of bright color enliven the white interior of Crudo by Pascal Lorange.

In Italy and Spain, “crudo” means raw, and, while several of the dishes served at Crudo by Pascal Lorange are centered around raw fish or beef, the name also accurately implies the light touch and fresh ingredients Chef Lorange uses in preparing his culinary creations.  You could call his style “Mediterrasian”, rooted in Mediterranean cuisine, but expressing itself with an Asian/Japanese accent. Or, in Lorange’s own words, “I cook what I love to eat. I am trying to bring something fresh to San Diego—Crudo is about my passion for the traditional cuisine from the Mediterranean coast, executed with Japanese-inspired fusions. I love authentic, yet delightful ingredients, with simple presentations.”

Chef/owner Pascal Lorange

Chef/owner Pascal Lorange

Lorange opened Crudo last summer in Carmel Valley’s The Village at Pacific Highlands Ranch complex. Born and raised in Belgium, the third-generation chef launched his culinary career in the kitchens of some of Europe’s most distinguished Michelin-star restaurants. He traveled the world as personal chef for singer Julio Iglesias, cooking for celebrities and luminaries, and became further known during his 10 year tenure with Fig & Olive Restaurants, which he helped create. He and his French-born wife, Sylvie Jourdan, designed Crudo’s sophisticated, contemporary interior. Sleekly white with vibrant splashes of color—think of a wall p1020335arranged with numerous small shelves, each one holding a perfect, deep red pomegranate or bright orange mini pumpkin— the decor successfully echoes the style of the menu offerings: serious, flavorful food that keeps it light and engaging. And, by light I mean, as in Asian food, there is no cream or butter in anything except the desserts! A meal at Crudo leaves you feeling comfortably satisfied, but not food coma bound. Most of the offerings are gluten-free, and there are sufficient choices for vegans and vegetarians. There’s nothing pretentious here, in either ambience or culinary experience, just high quality food, artfully presented. Continue reading

TRUST Me, You Need to Dine at TRUST

By Wendy Lemlin

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p1020289When Trust Restaurant opened earlier this year in Hillcrest, I was invited to a media preview. With its enviable location on the corner of Robinson and Park, I could see at once that the 1300 sq ft patio, with its eye-catching red accents, ample table seating, and comfy couches, was going to be an immediate neighborhood success. Inside, the décor was inviting as well, contemporary casual,p1020256 all light woods and black accents, with a decent sized bar taking up the entire north wall of the dining room and an open kitchen on the east side, giving diners something to look at, besides their phones, as they wait for their orders to arrive. At that media preview, I recall, I was impressed with the space, but not so much with the food.  To be fair, we were served tray-p1020257passed “bites” of various menu items—never a good way to fully appreciate all the nuances of a dish, IMHO—and the large crowd was aggressively pouncing on whatever tidbits came their way, so I only managed to taste a few things. All of which I felt were “okay”, but didn’t wow me, as I remember, not enough for me to make a special trip to the restaurant now that I no longer live in the neighborhood. Continue reading

Grill 23 & Bar: An Iconic Steakhouse Not Only For Meat Eaters

By Wendy Lemin

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   I don’t eat meat.  My Significant Other doesn’t eat seafood. I’m picky; I like my food locally sourced and artistically presented. S.O. doesn’t care as long as it tastes good and there is enough of it. Deciding on a restaurant at which to dine together can often be a challenge.

But not always.

On a recent trip to Boston, we had the pleasure of dining at Grill 23 & Bar, a Back Bay icon that is still packing them in, winning awards and accolades after 33 years of popularity. A classic steakhouse, which rightly brags about sourcing 100% of its all-natural, humanely raised beef from Brandt Beef in Southern California, Grill 23 also touts sustainably and locally raised produce and dayboat seafood in several menu selections. So, even though I usually tend to avoid meat-centric eateries where it seems that anything else is merely an afterthought, the seafood choices swimming through the meaty menu were sufficient to entice me. Continue reading

Mmmm—That’s Italian! Part 3: Chef Profile— Mario Cassineri

By Wendy Lemlin

Chef Mario Cassineri in the wine cellar at BiCE San Diego

Chef Mario Cassineri in the wine cellar at BiCE San Diego

“Here, try this.  I’m thinking of adding it to the menu; let me know what you think,” BiCE Ristorante San Diego’s executive chef Mario Cassineri invites, as he places a beautiful dish in front of me. Before I even taste it, I know what I will think.  I will love it, because I’ve IMG_9271never tasted anything from Chef Mario that I haven’t loved. And this creation—beet greens ravioli, the pasta tinted pink by the beet purée added to the dough, is no exception. Bathed in a sauce of  horseradish and shrimp reduction with a touch of brandy, and topped with succulent pieces of prized Baja shrimp, asparagus with just the right amount of crunch, and baby spinach leaves, the dish is satisfyingly rich, yet delicate, all at the same time.  It is this perfect balance of textures and flavors that, to me, has always been a hallmark of Cassineri’s cooking. Continue reading

La Bonne Table: A French Kiss for Hillcrest

By Wendy Lemlin

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      “French Bistro”. Those two words never fail to set my tastebuds on happy alert, and so, when I recently discovered La Bonne Table on the corner of Pennsylvania and Fifth Avenues in San Diego’s Hillcrest neighborhood, it was all I could do not to shout “ooh la la!” Continue reading