Food is getting mighty tasty in Lafayette, Louisiana, and at The Blue Dog Cafe, new executive chef Ryan Trahan is one of the culinary leaders making that happen.
When I first began my semi-annual travels to Lafayette about a dozen years ago to indulge my passion for the area’s Cajun and Zydeco music, there were very few restaurants that I could get excited about. Vegetables boiled to mush and deep fried everything weren’t really the way I liked to eat, plus, as a pescatarian who doesn’t eat meat, most of the Cajun specialties like boudin and dishes made with various pork products were not an option for me.
Chef Ryan Trahan and the Blue Dog
All that began to change a few years ago, when a growing number of new restaurants started highlighting local, healthier ingredients and creative cuisine, and bringing the so-called “farm-to-table” concept to my grateful tastebuds. In fact, in recent years, Lafayette has been experiencing a culinary renaissance, earning the titles of “Tastiest Town in the South” in 2014 from AAA Southern Traveler, and in 2012 from Southern Living, and “Best Food City” in 2011 from Rand McNally/USA Today. So, as of my recent trip to Lafayette for Mardi Gras, I have added a new favorite restaurant to my list—one that had, truthfully, underwhelmed me in the past but now has me singing its praises to all who will listen. Thanks to recently-hired Executive Chef Ryan Trahan’s inventive talent and spot-on cuisine, The Blue Dog Cafe has been reborn into a “must go” dining destination.
Chef Ryan Trahan in his kitchen
Ryan Trahan has been cooking for about 9 years and learned his trade by actually working in kitchens. Coming from a family with a 60 year history in the restaurant business, Chef Trahan found his passion in the kitchen early on, and set about to learn everything he could, using his creativity to elevate classic Louisiana favorites. Trahan’s food showcases fresh, regionally inspired, sustainably sourced, local cuisine focused on southern hospitality and Cajun culture. He took the helm of The Blue Dog’s kitchen in 2018, and prior to that he had gained renown at Dark Roux, an acclaimed sustainable Southern concept in Lafayette. In 2017 he was named a Chef to Watch by Louisiana Cookin’ magazine.
After being crowned “King of Louisiana Seafood” in June of 2018, defeating 11 other Louisiana chefs to win the Louisiana Seafood Cook-off, Trahan went on to represent Louisiana in the 15th Annual Great American Seafood Cook-Off held in New Orleans in August 2018, where he triumphed and took the crown of “King of American Seafood”. Twelve chefs from across the country competed in the live cooking contest, and Trahan’s “Cracklin’ Crusted Red Snapper with Pickled Crawfish tails, Buttermilk Chili Consomme, Spring Vegetables, Burnt Leek Oil and Bowfin Caviar” won him top honors.
Crowning the King of American Seafood
I visited Blue Dog Cafe twice during the week I was in Lafayette—yes it was that good—and sampled a number of dishes. In all honesty, there was nothing that disappointed and pretty much everything excited me. I can see myself returning on every subsequent trip to Lafayette until I’ve eaten my way through the entire very seafood-forward menu(don’t worry carnivores—there is plenty for y’all to love there, as well).
Perhaps my favorite dish was the simplest—the Cast Iron Heirloom Cornbread. Yeah, I hear you questioning, “cornbread, really?”, but this baked-in-a-skillet, share-size version was made with fresh milled Anson Mills blue corn meal, light and airy, with a pleasing nubby texture. Topped generously with a frothy melted mix of butter and Steen’s Cane Syrup from south Louisiana sugar fields, it was impossible to resist.
Cast Iron Heirloom Cornbread with Steens Cane Syrup Butter
The Buttermilk Crusted Fried Oysters made me reassess my antipathy to eating fried foods. I could probably eat these every day of my life and not care if I gained 500 lbs. The lightness of the batter, just crunchy enough on the outside, allowed the briny flavor of the juicy, plump gulf oysters to shine through without being overshadowed. The buttermilk cream added just enough acid to balance the umami of the oysters.
Cornmeal CrustedFried Oysters
Living in San Diego and crossing the border often, I have an unofficial “policy” of not eating gringo-ized “Mexican”-type food outside of Mexico (except for the authentic eateries owned by actual Mexicans in the border states). I also am not usually a fan of crawfish (yes, I know, a sacrilege in Louisiana!). However, I devoured the Blue Dog’s Crawfish Enchiladas. Actually, more like a crepe made with a flour tortilla, the enchiladas were filled with succulent pieces of fresh crawfish and baked in a delicious cumin mornay sauce. On the side, instead of the usual refried beans, was a bowl of spicy black eye peas, giving the entire dish a Louisiana sensibility spoken in a slight Mexican accent.
Crawfish Enchiladas
I’m always a sucker for shrimp & grits, and Chef Trahan’s BBQ Shrimp & Grits presented an excellent take on the classic dish. The grits were well flavored and creamy, with enough “gritty” texture to make them interesting. The half dozen or so large shrimp were cooked perfectly, tender and succulent, and the NOLA style barbecue sauce with fresh roasted tomatoes, onions and peppers took the dish to gastronomic elevation. Normally, there would be bacon in the dish, and I can see how that would add a whole other layer of flavor into the mix, but because of my non-carnivorous tendencies, I ordered mine without, and, truthfully, the flavor profile lacked nothing.
BBQ Shrimp & grits
On my second visit I ordered the Fresh Gulf Catch for my entree. I chose to have the Gulf Redfish grilled (as opposed to blackened), and like the shrimp described above, it was cooked perfectly—juicy and tender, well seasoned, with a nice grilled finish. It was served atop a portion of seasonal vegetables, and the lightest lemon emulsion provided a pleasing acidity.
Fresh Gulf Catch
The entire menu is very reasonably priced, especially for the quality of the food served. Entrees range from $12-$19, while share plates & starters 9many of which could be a meal in itself) range from $3-$14.
In case you’re wondering, yes, Blue Dog Cafe was founded in 1999 by artist George Rodrigue, who gained worldwide fame for his whimsical Blue Dog paintings, based on the Cajun legend of the Loup Garou. Since his death in 2013, Blue Dog Cafe has been operated by Rodrique’s sons and a family friend.
BTW, if a trip to Louisiana isn’t in your immediate future, you can sample some of Chef Trahan’s cuisine at the Gator By The Bay music and food festival in San Diego, CA May 9-12, 2019. He will be conducting cooking demos in the Taste of Louisiana pavilion on Saturday & Sunday, May 11 & 12.
Blue Dog Cafe 1211 W. Pinhook Rd., Lafayette, LA 70503 337-237-0005