Spring is Festival Season in Lafayette, LA

by Wendy Lemlin

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In Lafayette, Spring parades in like a Mardi Gras and 2-steps out like a Zydeco Queen. In fact, you could call springtime Festival Season, because when it comes to music, dancing, regional cuisine, and colorful traditions, there’s really no such thing as “too much of a good thing”, especially when all the fun is spotlighted at one of the many festivals taking place from March through May. The common denominator in most of this merriment, whether in the city or rural towns throughout the parish, is the joyous appreciation of life expressed through the accordion-driven, made-for-dancing, Cajun and zydeco music of the area, and rare is the event that doesn’t culminate in a dance party. If you really want to thoroughly experience festival time in Lafayette, you’d best bring your dancing boots along! Continue reading

Teaching an Old Blue Dog New Tricks

Food is getting mighty tasty in Lafayette, Louisiana, and at The Blue Dog Cafe,  new executive chef Ryan Trahan is one of the culinary leaders making that happen.

When I first began my semi-annual travels to Lafayette about a dozen years ago to indulge my passion for the area’s Cajun and Zydeco music, there were very few restaurants that I could get excited about. Vegetables boiled to mush and deep fried everything weren’t really the way I liked to eat, plus, as a pescatarian who doesn’t eat meat, most of the Cajun specialties like boudin and dishes made with various pork products were not an option for me.

Chef Ryan Trahan and the Blue Dog

Chef Ryan Trahan and the Blue Dog

All that began to change a few years ago, when a growing number of new restaurants started highlighting local, healthier ingredients and creative cuisine, and bringing the so-called “farm-to-table” concept to my grateful tastebuds. In fact, in recent years, Lafayette has been experiencing a culinary renaissance, earning the titles of “Tastiest Town in the South” in 2014 from AAA Southern Traveler, and in 2012 from Southern Living, and “Best Food City” in 2011 from Rand McNally/USA Today. So, as of my recent trip to Lafayette for Mardi Gras, I have added a new favorite restaurant to my list—one that had, truthfully, underwhelmed me in the past but now has me singing its praises to all who will listen. Thanks to recently-hired Executive Chef Ryan Trahan’s inventive talent and spot-on cuisine, The Blue Dog Cafe has been reborn into a “must go” dining destination. Continue reading

Mardi Gras Mambo in Cajun Country

By Wendy Lemlin

A courir de Mardi Gras begs for gumbo ingredients at a farm in Southwest Louisiana's Cajun Country. Credit: Philip Gould.

A courir de Mardi Gras in Southwest Louisiana’s Cajun Country. Credit: Philip Gould.

It’s early morning in Eunice, Louisiana, and the kaleidoscope of colors and patterns on traditional patchwork costumes are a wake-up call for the eyes, as the throng of masked revelers of the Mardi Gras “courir” set out on horseback through the countryside. Musicians on flatbed trucks provide the accompanying soundtrack with accordions and fiddles, and the beer flows freely, even at this early hour. Reliving a custom harkening back to medieval France, the “Mardis Gras”, as they are called, raucously beg ingredients from homes and farms for a communal gumbo later that day. Their loose, colorfully fringed costumes conceal their identities and, in a carryover from those long ago days, parody the roles of those in authority in the France of centuries ago.

Traditionally costumed riders set out on a Cajun "Courir de Mardi Gras" in Eunice, La. Credit: Philip Gould

Traditionally costumed riders of a “Courir de Mardi Gras” in Eunice, La. Credit: Philip Gould

Many hours, beers and miles later, the procession will ride into the center of town in mid-afternoon, to join a celebration where the air is filled with music, the rhythm of dancing feet, and the aromas of such Cajun delicacies as boiled crawfish, boudin, and etouffee.

Meanwhile, in the nearby town of Iota, hundreds of people bedecked in beads and feather boas, traditional costumes or western wear, are jammed onto a platform raised about 10 feet above the main street, dancing joyously to the live Cajun and zydeco music. Soon a truck load of costumed children arrive and start their ceremonial begging, a custom also from olden days, welcoming the coins that onlookers press into their little hands.

Traditionally costumed revelers arrive in Iota, La. Credit:: Wendy Lemlin

Traditionally costumed revelers arrive in Iota, La. Credit:: Wendy Lemlin

The King's Parade on Mardi Gras Day in Lafayette, La. Credit: Philip Gould

The King’s Parade on Mardi Gras Day in Lafayette, La. Credit: Philip Gould

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Lafayette, the King’s Parade, with its floats and grandeur, is festively making its way through downtown to the carnival at Cajun Field, as thousands of spectators, already weighted down with strands of colorful beads, line the parade route and scramble for even more beads and trinkets thrown from the floats.  Continue reading