by Wendy Lemlin
Interior of Cueva Bar
Ok, so I guess I’m pretty late to the party, because, despite the fact it’s been around for a few years, I just recently discovered Cueva Bar, an absolute gem of a tapas and wine bar in University Heights. I’d walked by it on several occasions as I was coming or going from the summer concerts at Old Trolley Barn Park, but, maybe because I don’t live in the neighborhood and am not over that way too often, I somehow missed the fact that Cueva Bar is a perfect place for tapas. And wine. And more tapas.
For me, tapas is the ideal way to eat. I’m a grazer, so having small bites of a large variety of dishes suits me just fine, especially when each one comes to the table like a separate gift of flavors and textures. I also enjoy the leisurely pace of tapas dining—savor a few dishes, drink more wine, order another dish or two, and repeat if you want.
Chef Oz
Chef/owner Oz Blackaller, a recent contestant on Food Network’s “Cut Throat Kitchen“, has had a love affair with food since he begged his mother to teach him to cook as a small boy in Monclova, Mexico. His tapas reflect a culinary fusion and geographical journey; the flavors incorporate elements of Mexico, Argentina, California, Spain, Asia and even Louisiana and beyond, and they all pretty much work in delicious harmony.
One Saturday a month, Cueva Bar hosts a special themed evening, and on December 13, I made my maiden visit as Chef Oz teamed up with fellow chefs Jorge Fuentes of Mariscos German Beyer and Gaston Corbala of GreenGo Grilled Cheese Gastro Truck and Rolling Taco Truck to present “Posada Splash”, a night of seafood tapas to honor the traditional las posadas, Mexican celebrations held on the nine days before Christmas.
I began with Tamal Piquillos, reminiscent of an inside-out tamale.
Tamal Piquillos
A mixture of corn masa, cheese, and elote (roasted corn kernels), stuffed and baked inside a Poblano chile had a pleasing bite of spiciness to wake up the tastebuds, but not overly hot. As Chef Oz told me, “Our food is flavorful and might have some heat, but we don’t believe in burning the palate so you can’t taste anything. We want the flavor of the chiles without having them overwhelm the rest of the dish.”
Next came the Oyster Parade, and what a procession it was! Nine very plump, raw Baja oysters, served three different ways.
Oysters done three ways
The rasurados had a touch of zing from the salt, lime, onion and jalapeno slices that topped them; oysters with olive tapenade were pleasingly savory, as the saltiness of the olives enhanced the natural sea salt flavor of the shellfish themselves. My favorites, however were prepared with a light sauce of Meyer lemon, cumin, and Peruvian black mint which imparted a fresh, clean happy taste.
If I had to pick a favorite dish of the evening, it would be the Tiritas. Somewhere
Tiritas de jurel
between a ceviche and a crudo, the pieces of uber-fresh yellowtail, known in Mexico as jurel and in sushi as hamachi, were marinated in a lively citrusy blend of lime juice, red onion slices, serranos and spices and served mounded on a baked tostada. I ate only one, but I could have gladly ordered three more.
Olive tapenade quesadillas
Olive Tapenade Quesadillas presented an interesting variation on a classic. They were served rolled, instead of folded, over house made chimichurri. The olive tapenade gave a welcome depth of flavor which harmonized well with the zesty Argentinian chimichurri.
I thought I couldn’t eat another bite, but then the Portobello Mushroom Skewer arrived. The umami-rich chunks of Portobello were brushed with lemon grass and ginger infused oil, and grilled to a tender meatiness—richly satisfying and yet light enough not to make me feel over-sated. The subtle lemongrass and ginger finish was especially appealing and added an Asian accent to the dish, the ideal note on which to end my meal.
Potobello mushroom skewers
Cueva Bar is located at 2123 Adams Avenue, San Diego 92116. PH: 619-269-6612