by Wendy Lemlin

(Published in San Antonio Express-News, 8/24/14)

To be perfectly honest, it’s darn near impossible not to feel romantic on Maui.  Maybe it’s the soft kisses of the tropical tradewinds on your cheeks, enticing with a subtle moistness, languid and energizing at the same time.  Maybe it’s the gentle perfume of plumeria, orchids, frangipani and other island flora, wafting on the breezes from gardens, arrangements on hotel tables, and leis around your neck.   It most definitely has to do with the constant views of multihued blue ocean waters—here a sheltered cove of the quintessential clear turquoise, there a deep indigo, and out there, maybe a few whitecaps on sapphire waves. The humpback whales cavorting between the shore and the horizon are that much more of an added benefit, spouting great sprays of vapor, fluking their enormous tails, and raising massive heads above the surface.  Even they feel the romance—they come to these waters from December to May to reproduce and bear their young, singing their plaintive songs which, if you’re really lucky, might circle around your ears from a distance as you and your honey snorkel hand in hand in the warm waters closer to shore.

On the eastern side of the island, along the fabled “Road to Hana” and the environs of Hana itself, the very lushness of the topography can’t help but to inspire romance.

The jungle-like hillside vegetation abounds with runaway fecundity, and waterfalls gush from lava stone ledges everywhere, often emptying into sparkling pools just perfect for a cooling dip.

Ten miles south of the quiet, laidback town of Hana, the Haleakala National Park Visitor’s Center at Kipahulu is the starting point of the four mile round trip Pipiwai hiking trail to the base of the awe-inducing Waimoka Falls, a 400 foot high cascade that tumbles in misty grandeur down the rocky cliff face.

Although steadily uphill, the trail is not difficult and passes through an enchanting, almost otherworldly, bamboo forest, skirting many smaller waterfalls, pools and magical scenery.

The melodious birdsongs of mynah, white-rumped shama, red-crested and northern cardinals, and numerous other species hidden in the dense foliage fill the air. Close to the Visitor’s Center, the lower falls are known as Pools of Ohe’o, or the Seven Sacred Pools. If you get there early in the day, they are worth a refreshing swim, though by late morning they become too crowded and noisy to offer much romantic ambience.

 

Of course, along Maui’s western shore, the sunsets tend towards the phenomenal as the flaming sphere dips into the sea, which reflects the sky’s pinks, purples and golds in a multi-dimensional color extravaganza. There’s always a spot along the many beaches for lovers to spread out a blanket and toast the sunset with a glass of bubbly.  For the more adventurous, a drive to the 7 mile wide crater at the 10,000 foot high peak of Haleakala volcano will give amazing sunset views of most of the island when the skies are clear, and when the weather is moist and clouds swirl around the mountaintop, be prepared to be enthralled by the vivid rainbows for which Hawaii is known. (Hint—be sure to bring warm clothes, as it is always windy and chilly at that elevation.)

 

After enjoying the spa at Travaasa Hana, a dip in the infinity edge pool is in order. Credit: Travaasa Hana

 

Romance on Maui is ageless; no matter how young or old you are it will snare you in its embrace.  For outdoors-loving Claudia and Nick Norton of Salt Lake City, their visit to the island in general, and the hike to Waimoka Falls in particular, was both a commemoration of milestone birthdays—65 for her, 60 for him— and a celebration of love still strong after 19 years of marriage.  On the other hand, 30-somethings Elizabeth Mullins and William Petersen from Toronto chose a romantic resort idyll at the Travaaasa Hana for their “babymoon” to enjoy some rest and tranquility as a couple—luxuriating with hot stone massages at the Spa, lounging by the infinity pool, quiet conversations over gourmet dinners— before the whirlwind as new parents of their first child begins in three months.

For the ultimate romantic experience, the aloha spirit of Maui provides the ideal ambience for an unforgettable destination wedding, renewal of vows or special anniversary.  Many resorts and hotels on the island provide wedding and honeymoon packages, each with their own special touches.  At the newly remodeled oceanfront all-suite Fairmont Kea Lani in beautiful Wailea, among the many customizable wedding options is the unique Ka Male ‘Ana Hawai’i package, which emulates an ancient Hawaiian wedding ceremony, thought to have taken place over three hundred years ago. The rites are performed by a Kahu (Hawaiian minister) who is the great, great grandson of Queen Ka’ahumanu, the favorite wife of Hawai’i’s first king, Kamehameha, and includes, among other elements, such intrinsically Hawaiian touches as beautiful leis for the wedding party and guests, ukelele musicians, a hula dancer, a conch shell blown in the ancient Hawaiian tradition, the arrival of the groom by outrigger canoe and the performance of a time-honored water ceremony—not to mention spacious accommodations in a deluxe oceanview suite, the reception, photography and videography, wedding cake and services of a personal wedding planner. For those seeking a honeymoon or other romantic interlude, Fairmont Kea Lani offers candlelight patio dining at Kō, the resort’s award-winning signature restaurant, an adults-only pool with private shaded cabanas, oceanfront couples massages and a variety of treatments in the blissfully well-appointed, recently completed 9000 square foot Willow Stream Spa, and luxurious one-bedroom suites to call home.

Want to skip all the stressful wedding preparations and unmanageable guest lists, and make your special day just about the two of you?  At the eastern tip of the island, tranquil Travaasa Hana resort, with its  “real Hawaii” ambience, offers an Elopement Wedding package including a two night stay in a spacious ocean view Sea Ranch Cottage with private hot tub, daily spa treatments for both of you, a wedding ceremony on a black lava ledge at a secluded site on the ocean’s edge, leis, flowers scattered at the ceremony site and in the cottage upon your return, champagne and much more.  All you have to do, is say “I do”.

The romance of Maui is everywhere.  In a swaying hammock under a palm tree, snorkeling off a black sand beach, watching a rainbow emanating from a sunstruck jungle waterfall, or dining al fresco at a four star restaurant under a sky of a million stars, it will find you. Accept it with a gracious “mahalo” and keep it in your heart always.

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If you go:

Getting There:

Flights arrive at Kahului, (airport code OGG) centrally located on the northern coast of the island. Driving around the island is relatively easy, there are a limited number of main roads and most speed limits are 45mph or less.

Stay:

Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Maui, HI 96753. 866-540-4456 info@kealani.com  fairmont.com/kea-lani-maui.

All suite and villa luxury oceanfront resort, situated on 22 acres of tropical landscape in Wailea on Maui’s southwestern coast, close to the town of Kihei. Amenities at this large resort include the newly-opened 9,000 square-foot Willow Stream Spa, an adults-only pool as well as two activity pools connected by a 140-foot waterslide, 24-hour fitness center and classes, kid’s club, boutique shopping, full wedding coordination services, 36,000 square feet of meeting and event function space, organized activities, casual and fine dining restaurants. Rates starting at $549 per night.

 

Travaasa Hana, 5031 Hana Hwy, Hana, HI, 96713. 877-252-8911 travaasa.com/hana

At the secluded, eastern tip of Maui, this oceanfront “experiential resort” offers a true escape of tranquil luxury with an “old Hawaii” feel. Unlike other luxury resorts, there is no tipping here other than for food and beverage and spa services, yet the staff is gracious and friendly. Accommodations are in spacious suites or the private, adults-only Sea Ranch Cottages, scattered around beautiful grounds with their own pool and lounging areas (highly recommend!).  Complimentary activities include use of bicycles, croquet, tennis, yoga and other classes, pitch’n’putt golf, hula, ukulele, & lei making lessons, and shuttle service to private HamoaBeach. Fine dining restaurant and more casual bar. Full service spa. Getting to Hana is half the fun, along the slow (10-20 mph speed limit) winding road, full of waterfalls and lush scenery, but if you would rather skip the 3-4 hours drive, plane service is available from Kahului (included in certain Travaasa packages). Rates starting at $400 per night.

 

Dine:

Wailea:

Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Maui, HI96753, 808-875-2210, korestaurant.com.  Multiple award-winning, fine dining restaurant featuring locally sourced cuisine inspired by the sugarcane plantation era, with Hawaiian, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Korean, and Japaneseinfluences. A standout starter: sear-it-yourself Ahi On The Rock with three buttery tender pieces of ahi tuna that you cook to taste on a hot rock. An entrée of Lavender Honey Macadamia Nut Shrimp is as delicious as it sounds. Be prepared for sticker shock—most entrees are in the $40+ range, but the portions are generous and the quality is worth a splurge.

 

Hana:

Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food, 5050 Uakea Rd., Hana, Maui, 96753. An off-the-beaten-track (on a little side street behind the town ballfield) palapa-style al fresco restaurant, serving excellent Thai food, very reasonably priced (most entrees $10-$15).  A welcome respite from the overpriced touristy eateries found throughout most of the island (to be fair, most things on the island are flown or shipped in, so naturally prices are higher than on the mainland), where you can feel comfortable coming right from the beach or a waterfall hike. Open 10:30-4 (or until they run out of food, which they sometimes do, so get there early).

 

Ka’uiki Dining Room, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hana Hwy, Hana, HI, 96713. Pretty much the only game in town for fine dining in Hana. Fairly limited seasonal menu, serving “Hana Fusion” cuisine starring mostly local ingredients, such as grilled monchong, a mild flavored, finely textured white fish, with stir fried veggies.  Lilikoi (passionfruit) crème brulee rocks the dessert menu.  Open daily for lunch and dinner. Very pricey.

 

Do:

For a comprehensive list of everything there is to do on Maui, go to www.gohawaii.com, the website of the Maui Visitor’s Bureau.

 

Snorkel

The underwater life in Maui is excellent, and it is easy to snorkel off many of the beaches. The tradewinds tend to blow in the afternoons, making the water choppy and compromising the visibility, so get out there in the morning for the best experience. South of Lahaina, in the area around Olawalu, around mile marker 14 on Rte. 30, it’s usually calm, even when the wind is whipping around the rest of the island, and a close-in reef provides for many fish and sea turtles.  There is also good snorkeling around the black lava rocks at Makena Beach, south of Wailea.

 

If the seas are calm, take a sail with Trilogy Excursions to snorkel at Molokini Crater, departing from Ma’alaea Harbor.  The half day trip  to what remains of the top of an extinct volcano rising from the ocean includes all snorkel equipment (and personal instruction), wetsuit tops if desired, stops at two different Molokini sites, a breakfast of  fresh baked cinnamon rolls and fruit and a BBQ chicken lunch, and whale watching (December-April). The extremely helpful crew and the company’s commitment to marine and reef ecology make Trilogy Excursions an excellent choice for offshore snorkeling. Sailtrilogy.com 800-225-6284

 

Beaches

Especially along Maui’s western and southern coasts, you’ll find no shortage of lovely, accessible beaches. Areas along the northern and eastern coasts can be more rocky with high cliffs, and less beaches. The golden sand beaches fringing the Wailea development, Makena Beach and around Kihei are especially popular for incredible sunset views, with Molokini seen offshore. Near Lahaina, Route 30 passes along classic beaches fringed with palm trees.

 

Haleakala National Park

Thirty thousand acre Haleakala National Park is home to Maui’s highest peak, rising 10,023 feet above sea level. Located in almost the center of the island, Haleakala’s slopes can be seen from just about any point on Maui.  Early risers make the pilgrimage to the top to view the sunrise (be prepared to leave your hotel at about 3 or 4 AM to witness the unforgettable view—it’s about a 2 hour scenic drive from the resort areas of Kihei or Ka’anapali), but sunsets there can awesome as well, depending on the weather, which seems to change from one minute to the next.  Winds at the summit generally range from 10-40mph, and the temperature is a chilly 30-50 degrees, so dress warmly. The crater at the summit is fascinating in its rocky desolation and the mountain is home to the highly endangered Nene (Hawaiian Goose) and the rare silversword plant.

At the southeastern edge of the park, on the coast south of Hana, the Kipahulu Visitor Center is the access point for the lush tropical waterfalls and hiking trails leading to Ohe’o Gulch and Waimoka Falls.  Throughout the park, from the mountainside to the coast, there are numerous hiking trails and opportunities to view endangered species in their natural habitat. Nps.gov/hale

The Road to Hana Much has been written about the winding road to Hana which will take you a minimum of 3-4 hours to cover 57 miles.  But those 57 miles are filled with a plethora of waterfalls to ogle, trails to hike through an abundance of tropical vegetation to find even more waterfalls (hint: if you see several cars parked along the road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, look for an unmarked trail and follow it. There will be a wonderful cascading reward at the end of the probably very muddy trail), and cliffside ocean vistas, often accompanied by rainbows.  Many people do the drive there and back from their hotels in the western part of the island in one day.  Treat yourself to an overnight in Hana, and spend as much time as you want swimming in the various waterfall pools along the way.

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